OK so it took me longer than I originally thought it would, but here it is – my super fresh Crochet Star Wars R2D2 amigurumi pattern. I’ve approached this several times but there was always something which didn’t feel right there. But this time I nailed it and here it comes!
In this post I aim to provide guidance for crocheting toy’s parts and some tips and tricks for assembly, focusing on its body as I find it most tricky.
If you don’t have my pattern yet, then you can get it from my Etsy shop.
If you do – I hope you enjoy it!
Supplies needed for R2D2 amigurumi
This time I decided to use ‘Drops Loves You #8’ yarn. And I am really happy about this choice. It’s really great to work with and gave me required effects (smooth and thick texture). Lastly, its price is reasonable.
I used following colors:
- 04 „Dark Grey” – few meters
- 08 „Navy Blue” – 1.5 skeins
- 01 „White” – 6 skeins
- 06 „Light Jeans Blue” – few meters
- 03 „Grey” – 2.5 skeins
We will also need few meters of Scheepjes Cahlista 110 „Jet Black”. Finally, we’ll need few meters of any color cotton yarn for finishings (red, yellow, green and brown). I used Katia Amigurumi but any other would be fine too. If you don’t have any you can substitute brown with black and other colors with white.
If ‘Drops Loves You #8’ is not available in your area, or for whatever reason you don’t want to use it, then try to find a replacement. Based on my experience for this Star Wars amigurumi I would recommend Drops Muskat, Scheepjes Cahlista or Gazzal Baby Cotton XL as replacements. You may also try Lion Brand 24/7 or Bernat Handicrafter, although to be honest I haven’t tried those two yet so I wouldn’t dare to opine.
Just bear in mind that substitute yarn may be slightly thicker or thinner, so your final toy may be smaller or larger than mine (mine is 30 centimeters/12 inches tall). Additionally, you may need to adjust yarn quantities.
If you need a hand in finding yarn substitutes then you may want to read my blog post on yarn weights.
Accessories needed to make your own Crochet Star Wars Amigurumi
- Crochet hook: 3mm (US D-3) and 2mm (US B-1)
- Stitch markers
- Toy stuffing (Note: if you wish to explore some more options then have a look at my Stuffing for Toys blog post)
- Tapestry Needle
- Row counter
Want to spice up your toy? Add remarkable amigurumi accessories to make your plushie stand out!
Psst: If you purchase an item from this post, I may receive a small cut. There is no extra cost to you and it helps me keep creating free content and patterns. Thank you for your support! Note that each item and price is up to date at the time of publication; however, an item may be sold out or the price may be different at a later date.
Important notes to the Crochet Star Wars Project
19 sts/20 rows = 10cm/4 inches square in single crochet
- Mr – magic ring
- Sc – single crochet
- Inc – 2 in one
- Decr – 2 together
- Ch – chain
- FPsc – front post single crochet
- Slp st – slip stitch
- 30 cm (12 inches) tall
- 20 cm (8 inches) wide
- 15 cm (6 inches) deep
And one last hint – in general for any type of amigurumi or toy crochet projects use smaller hook than what yarn manufacturers suggest on a label. You want stitches to be ‘condensed’ so that when you stuff your toy the white filling doesn’t shine through. For ‘Drops Loves You #8’ suggested hook size is 5mm – I used 3mm.
Crochet Star Wars – Making and assembling toy parts
For this pattern sequence of crocheting and assembling parts, in general, is important as we build up on items already done. I will here focus on providing more details around main body parts as I feel this may be the most challenging bit. Feel free to contact me if you need any more details or help on any of the parts.
If you think about it, our Robot is a barrel on legs 🙂 Well, at least shape wise..
To produce that shape we first make a two-layer rectangle, then we sew it up along shorter edges, ‘close’ the barrel on both top and bottom sides and add legs.
We start with crocheting base rectangle.
Layers of the Rectangle
Below pictures show schemes for both layers. Each tiny square represents a single crochet stitch. You can see straight away that both layers have the same size.
Note: Black areas represent ‘holes’ in the layer. This will allow us to create 3D effect after joining with the bottom layer. Navy blue areas also represent ‘holes’ in the layer. Those holes should match navy blue parts crocheted in the bottom layer.
The base (bottom) layer is simple – mainly white with some navy blue parts.
Top layer is a bit more complex. It consists of multiple little puzzles which are crocheted separately and then sewn into the base layer. The series of below pictures show each component. Using both schemes you shouldn’t have any problems to identify and calculate sewing position of each puzzle. For example, puzzle A should cover row 1, stitches from 1 to 17 and rows 2, 3, 4, 5, stitches 1 and 2 of the base layer.
One note here – when you attach puzzles remember also to connect puzzle edges at the point they meet (not only sew into base layer). For example, join A with D, A with B, B with E and so on. That way when you stuff your toy it will preserve its shape.
Also, as you go you may want to add frames and details as instructed in the pattern. It’s not necessary and you can add those at the very end but making them straight away should make your life easier (less chances you’ll get lost). W make frames using silver yarn. If you want them to be more subtle then simply split the yarn into two threads (i.e. take 4 plies instead of 8).
Your final result should look like this:
Once you have both layers completed, you need to connect shorter edges of the rectangle. This way we obtain a tube-like shape, which we’ll close on the top and on the bottom sides (top and bottom is marked in the pattern itself).
The only tricky thing here is crocheting first row of top and bottom. We make that first row by crocheting 72 stitches into the ‘tube’. Since our base rectangle had 72 rows, you should basically make one single crochet into each row. That shouldn’t be too complicated. Make sure though you insert your hook into the top layer of the rectangle – that will ensure smooth transition between parts. Other than that, all should be self-explanatory.
Stuff the main part of the body once you make the bottom. Stuff firmly, but not too much. We don’t want the Robot to be too chubby. Stuff head as you go.
Now the fun part 🙂 Add cameras and lights to the crochet R2D2 head. Get creative – you can add them in various places and using various colors. Diodes are circles – just make 6 single crochets in the magic ring. If you want/need to make them bigger simply increase (two in one) 6 times.
To make it look nicer use seamless sewing technique. If you’re not familiar with it then please search YouTube for free tutorials. It’s a brilliant method to join amigurumi body parts.
We make 2 (duh!). We start each leg by crocheting rectangle shaped sole, using silver yarn. Then, on each side of that rectangle we create bell-like shapes, which constitute 4 sides of a leg. The first row ofeach side is made using front post single crochet. If you are not familiar with this technique you can find plenty of free tutorials on YouTube. It’s really simple! Worst case scenario – just use regular single crochet for that firs row. It should look fine too.
Join all four sides using single crochet on the outside. That way we create sort of edges, which nicely stand out. The only tricky part here may be the top, where all 4 sides meet. Two of those are wider (marked as C & D in the pattern) and have 4 stitches in the last row. Two are narrower (marked as A & B in the pattern) and those two should meet at the top. Look at the image – they meet where the pink star is, i.e. in the middle of the wider sides. Blue arrows show direction of attaching sides A & B. Numbers represent row numbers of pattern for sides C & D.
Stuff Robot’s legs before closing off. Stuff firmly but not too much. We want the legs to be stable but not too chubby to preserve neat proportions between main body and legs.
Once done – attach legs to the body. Use seamless joining for that purpose. If after sewing the top you find that your Robot is a bit wobbly then you can also sew bottom parts – look at the image, red star shows that very spot.
And you’re done with your crochet Star Wars project!!
I really hope you enjoyed making the R2D2 amigurumi. If you have any questions – leave them below and I will do my best to help.
Share your Little Robot with us as well. I’m looking for inspiration 🙂
Last but not least, try out some other fun crochet fan art projects such as Free Crochet Baby Groot Pattern. If you’d like to make something simpler then check out my free Crochet Llama pattern or simply search through my Amigurumi Patterns.
May the Force be with You!